Deciding on the right 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift is usually the first thing on the agenda when you realize that stock height just isn't cutting it anymore. Whether you're trying to clear a set of 37s or you just want that aggressive stance that a heavy-duty truck deserves, the 2013 model year is an interesting one. It was a bit of a transition year for Ram, so you have to be a little more careful about what you're buying compared to the older generations.
If you've spent any time looking at your front end, you probably noticed that the 2013 Ram 2500 moved to a radius arm setup. This was a big departure from the older four-link style, and it changes how a lift kit needs to be designed to keep your truck driving straight. Let's get into the weeds of what you actually need to know before you start dropping thousands of dollars on parts.
Why the 2013 model year is a bit different
The 2013 Ram 2500 is a bit of a "tweener" in the truck world. While the 3500 got the big frame and suspension overhaul in 2013, the 2500 followed suit with some specific changes that catch people off guard. When you're shopping for a 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift, you'll often see kits listed for "2013-2018" models. This is because of that radius arm front suspension I mentioned.
The radius arm design is actually pretty robust, but it creates some geometry challenges once you start going higher than two or three inches. If you don't use drop brackets or longer arms, your caster gets all out of whack, and suddenly your truck feels like it's wandering all over the highway. Nobody wants to white-knuckle their steering wheel on a road trip, so paying attention to those radius arm drops is key.
Finding the sweet spot for lift height
Most guys seem to fall into one of three camps: the "just a level" group, the "4-inch is perfect" group, and the "6-inch or bust" crowd. To be honest, the "best" height really depends on what you're doing with the truck every day.
The leveling kit route (2 to 2.5 inches)
If you just want to get rid of that factory nose-down rake and fit some 35-inch tires, a leveling kit is the easiest way to go. It's not technically a full 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift, but it gets the job done for a fraction of the price. You'll usually get some coil spacers or new front springs. Just a heads up: even at this height, your axle is going to pull slightly to the driver's side. An adjustable track bar is a lifesaver here to get everything centered again.
The 4-inch lift: The daily driver's dream
For my money, a 4-inch lift is where these trucks look the best. It's high enough to look like a beast, but not so high that you need a ladder to get into the cab. At this height, you can comfortably run 37s, though you might have to do a little plastic trimming depending on your wheel offset. Most 4-inch kits for the 2013 will include radius arm drop brackets to keep your alignment in check, which is a must for ride quality.
Going big with a 6-inch lift
If you want to clear 37s with room to spare or even squeeze some 38s under there, you're looking at a 6-inch 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift. This is where things get a bit more involved. You're definitely going to need a dropped pitman arm to keep your drag link and track bar parallel, otherwise, you'll deal with bump steer—which is basically the steering wheel jerking every time you hit a pothole. It's a cool look, but definitely more maintenance and more stress on your ball joints and U-joints.
Don't skimp on the shocks
If there's one thing that'll ruin your experience with a new lift, it's cheap shocks. These trucks are heavy—especially if you have the Cummins under the hood—and they will eat budget white-body shocks for breakfast. When you're picking out your 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift, look at what shocks come in the box.
Nitrogen-charged shocks like the Bilstein 5100s are a popular "budget-friendly" upgrade that actually performs. If you have some extra cash, stepping up to a 2.5-inch diameter reservoir shock from Fox or King will change your life. It turns that stiff, jarring heavy-duty ride into something that actually soaks up the bumps. If you're going to spend the money to lift it, don't make it ride like a dump truck.
The importance of the track bar and steering
Ram trucks are somewhat famous (or infamous) for the "death wobble." While a lift kit doesn't technically cause it, it can definitely make any existing issues way worse. When you install a 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift, you're changing the angles of all your steering components.
An adjustable track bar is almost non-negotiable in my opinion. It's the component that holds your axle centered under the frame. If you use a cheap relocation bracket, they tend to flex or even crack under the weight of the truck. A beefy, adjustable track bar lets you dial in the axle position perfectly. Also, while you're under there, check your steering dampener. A dual-stabilizer setup looks cool, but a single, high-quality gas-charged stabilizer is usually all you need to keep the feedback out of the steering wheel.
Tires, wheels, and rubbing issues
Once the 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift is installed, the next big question is always the rubber. On a 2013, the wheel wells are pretty generous, but the offset of your wheels makes all the difference. If you keep your factory wheels, you might run into issues with the tires rubbing the radius arms at full lock because the factory wheels have so much backspacing.
If you're going with aftermarket wheels, something with a -12mm or -24mm offset is popular for that wider stance. Just keep in mind that the further the wheel sticks out, the more it's going to rub on the back of the fender well when you're turning. A little bit of "trimming" (which is a nice way of saying cutting your truck with a saw) is often part of the process if you want that wide look.
Final thoughts on the DIY approach
Can you install a 2013 ram 2500 suspension lift in your driveway? Absolutely, if you have a massive floor jack, some heavy-duty stands, and a whole lot of patience. These parts are heavy—the coil springs alone are pretty intimidating. You'll also need a big torque wrench because some of these bolts require 200+ ft-lbs of torque.
The most important thing to remember is to get an alignment immediately after you're done. Don't even "drive it for a week to let it settle." Your toe and caster will be out of whack, and you'll start chewing through those expensive new tires faster than you'd believe.
Lifting a 2013 Ram 2500 is one of the best ways to make the truck feel "yours." It changes the whole vibe of the vehicle. Just do yourself a favor and don't cut corners on the steering components or the shocks. Your back—and your wallet—will thank you in the long run when you aren't replacing ball joints every six months or bouncing down the highway like a pogo stick.